
Augusto Cristino – Business Manager
ARTUR PINHO – Shoemakers Legacy
ARTUR PINHO – Shoemakers Legacy
ARTUR PINHO – Shoemakers Legacy
Construction
Blake Construction is a method of making shoes created in 1856 by Lyman Reed Blake.
In this method, the outer sole is directly stitched to the insole, providing maximum flexibility and a light weight to the shoe when compared to Goodyear construction, which is more resistant.
The Blake stitch is located in the internal part of the shoe, made with a specific machine for the effect, created by Reed Blake. Because the insole is stitched to the sole, on the inside, the shoe will have less layers, becoming more flexible and comfortable, but also more prone to become worn out and humidity.
Construction
The machinery used in this process was created in 1869 by Charles Goodyear.
It is a long process, invented hundreds of years ago that is still considered one of the best methods to make shoes.
It is a method of high quality and durability.
A Goodyear insole is stitched on the upper part and a strip of canvas (known as «gemming») is cemented to the insole of the shoe, as an attach-point for the sole. The space enclosed by the welt is filled with cork or any other filling material (usually porous or perforated, for breathability) and the outer sole is both cemented and stitched to the welt.
Construction
Welted-Norwegian Construction, frequently called Norvegese, is also a method of producing shoes of high quality and durability.
This process evolved from the Goodyear method of construction, assuring higher resistance to water and humidity.
Instead of having the upper part running along the seam of the insole, as it happens with Goodyear construction, the upper part is turned outward to sit on top of and run parallel to the outer sole.
One row of stitching connects the welt to the insole and the other row connects the welt to the outer sole. By turning out the upper, Norwegian construction doesn’t let any humidity in.
This type of construction is easily identified for the stitches that run along the base of the upper part. This method, along with Goodyear, is more rigid than Blake’s Construction.
The aesthetics of the Norwegian stitches functions perfectly in shoes and boots and adds volume resulting in a more casual look.
Construction
The Bologna Construction creates a smooth comfortable shoe. The lining is joined stitched together like a sock fitting the last tightly. The leather upper is then attached to the sole via the Blake stitching method. The Bologna shoe construction method is ideal for making very clean looking and flexible shoes.